"Pushing Bridal Toward Fashion"~Anna Maier/Ulla~Maija Couture Anna Maier/Ulla~Maija Couture is the leader in bridal couture gowns. At A Soolip Wedding, AM/UM featured Collection 24, an exquisite variety of bridal gowns that spanned fitted embellished sheath gowns to ballroom gowns. Chairman & CEO, Charles Bunstine, met with Agenda to describe the couture design process and the bridal collection. The Collection: Collection 24 is an extension of what we are doing for bridal, continuing to push bridal more and more toward fashion. We are a bridal gown business known for our draping, the fabrics we use, and the individual fit to create and accentuate shape. This collection is typically spring, particularly happy and light. We used fabrics that were more fluid, with more air in them. We use fabrics that look like organza which are stronger, stiffer, allowing for us to create shape with it. Process: We design everything to the client's body. People think couture is the client coming in and describing what she wants us to do; instead, we listen to what she wants and based on that information and her shape, we design something special for her, designed expressly for the bride. We take all the measurements, horizontally and vertically, and we discuss the design with her. You can have the same horizontal measurements as a size 6 for example, but vertical proportions may need to be changed. When we make a pattern, we're able to adjust the line of the body. It's very individualized. The result is something where we have been able to accentuate a certain shape and overall feel. We also address the wedding mood, such as the season, the formality, the climate, etc. Time Frame: Nationally, we are working with 500 brides at a time. There have been times where we can work on something in as little as ten days, which we don't do very often. The time frame is usually dictated by the fabric. For example, a lace may take 120 days to make. Timing really depends on the gown itself. Fittings: Fittings depend on our availability. We don't see anyone in March-April or September-October because we're working on our collections for the seasons' deadlines. Usually the initial fitting will suffice and then a final fitting. Recruiting Designers: I lead the design effort looking at interns and apprentices who design with me. We are particularly looking for designers who have the capability, the core technical skills, sketching ability, and who are able to approach the design vision. And then we teach them bridal, draping, construction, all the technical qualities of fabric and construction. It's really about designing beautiful dresses. We are the only ones doing couture for bridal. There are a lot of dressmakers, but we're the only one creating a collection for the individual client. Coverage by Pamela Heath |
